Every surfer remembers their very first board—the one that taught them how to chase waves, wipe out, laugh, and dream big. For me, that board came into my life at the very beginning of my surfing journey, in a little corner of Indonesia called Batukaras.
I still remember how it all happened, just a few weeks after I caught my very first wave at the end of 2023. Here’s the full story of my first surfboard, the memories it gave me, and what’s coming next in my surfing adventure!
🏄🏽♀️ The Story of How I Got My First Surfboard
At the end of 2023, I had just fallen in love with surfing. Every day at the beach was a new adventure—standing up, falling down, paddling for waves with everything I had. It didn’t take long for my family and coach to see that I was hooked for life.
One afternoon, a local surfer who had been coaching me told me about a Japanese surfer who was returning home. Before leaving Batukaras, the surfer wanted to sell their board. It wasn’t brand new, but it was still in great condition and had the right vibe for a young surfer starting out.
Without thinking twice, we made it happen. That day, I became the proud owner of my very first surfboard—a board that would carry me through so many firsts.
The Board: Technical Details and Why It Was Special
My first surfboard was a thruster setup with three fins, but it had five fin slots in total—meaning it could also be used as a quad if needed. It was 5’4″ long, which for some groms might sound small, but for me at the time, it was actually a little bit big!
The extra size was a blessing in disguise. It gave me more stability, made it easier to catch waves early, and helped me build confidence popping up. When you’re just starting out, that extra bit of forgiveness makes all the difference.
The board had a simple but classic design that made me feel like a real surfer every time I paddled out. No crazy colors or graphics—just a pure, honest board ready to ride.
It wasn’t a perfect fit forever, but it was perfect for learning. That’s what made it so special.
🌊 Learning to Surf With It: Wipeouts, Wins, and Everything In Between
The first few weeks with my board were all about experimenting. Some days I felt like a superhero; other days the ocean reminded me who’s boss!
I surfed my local break in Batukaras almost every day, practicing paddling, popping up, balancing, and riding waves as far as I could. My coach was there for every session, shouting tips and encouragement from the water and the beach.
One of my best early memories was catching my first unbroken wave all by myself. It was a small, gentle right-hander—and even though I only stood for a few seconds, it felt like flying. My first board made that moment possible.
Of course, there were also tons of wipeouts! 😂 But every fall taught me something, and every small success made me love surfing even more.
✨ What My First Surfboard Taught Me
My first surfboard taught me way more than just how to surf. It taught me:
- Patience — Because learning takes time (and lots of wipeouts!)
- Persistence — Because every wipeout is just a step closer to success
- Gratitude — Because not everyone gets a chance to chase their dreams this way
- Joy — Because every wave, even the smallest one, is a reason to smile
It also gave me my first taste of surf stoke—that feeling you get when you’re in the ocean, chasing waves, feeling free.
Even though I’m moving on to a new board this year, I’ll always be grateful to my first surfboard. It was the first chapter in my surfing story.
🏄🏽♀️ My Next Step: A Custom Board Built Just for Me
This year, I’m leveling up.
I’m ordering my first custom surfboard, one that fits my height, weight, and style of surfing perfectly!
I’m working with Robi Hendra, an amazing surfer and shaper from Bali. Robi is helping me design a board that’s lighter, more maneuverable, and ideal for the types of moves and turns I want to master next.
It’s a huge step because it shows how serious I am about improving and chasing my dream of becoming a WSL champion someday.
While I’ll never forget my first board, I know this next board will help me unlock new levels in my surfing—faster takeoffs, sharper turns, and maybe even some aerials (one day!) 🌈
💬 Final Thoughts
Getting my first surfboard wasn’t just about getting gear—it was about starting a journey.
That thruster was my first real connection to the ocean, my first partner in chasing dreams, and the reason I’m standing here today, hungry for more waves, more adventures, and bigger goals.
Wherever my surfing career takes me, I’ll always carry the memory of that board—and the feeling of riding my very first wave.
Stay tuned for my next post where I’ll show you the design and story behind my new custom board! 🏄♀️
