💥 When I Got Hit in the Lineup: A Lesson from the Point

05/04/2025 -- by Intan Surf in 🌊 Surf Progress Journal, 💖 Girl Power Surf

🌅 Early Morning at the Point

get_hit_in_the_lineup_intansurf

The session started like any other. The sun was barely up, and I paddled out with excitement. The waves were soft and small at first, about 3 to 4 feet—nothing crazy. I was feeling confident, ready for another fun day training and improving. But Batukaras always has surprises, and today would turn out way different than I expected.

By around 7:30 AM, the ocean changed. The sets started rolling in bigger, around 6 to 7 feet—moderately large, especially for me as an 8-year-old grom surfer girl. There were about 20–35 surfers in the water, mostly adults and older teens. I was the only grom in the lineup at the point. It felt intense, but I held my line, stayed focused, and stayed safe—until wave number seven.

🚨 The Impact: What Happened

I had just paddled back into position after riding a few smaller waves. A few local surfers had seen me and even helped give me a little push into one wave because I was a bit slow on the paddle. That moment felt amazing—getting support from the older, more experienced surfers gave me a boost of confidence.

At the same time, my Dad, who was watching from the longboard near the point, started calling out to me: “Intan, come surf near the beach—it’s safer!”

I hesitated.

That’s when one of the local senior surfers Budi who also my first coach paddled over and said something I’ll never forget:

“Stay here, Intan. Grom surfers deserve waves too. We’ve got your back.”

So I stayed. In the few minutes I got my waves, Mr. Budi help push me And then, boom.
Out of nowhere—a bigger surfer collided with me mid-wave, crashing straight into my left chest.

The pain was instant. It knocked the wind out of me. My board spun away, and for a moment, I just floated, frozen and confused. I was in pain. I didn’t cry right away—I just held still, shocked.

🛟 Paddling In & Getting Support

My dad noticed something was wrong and quickly paddled out to me. As he reached me, I was trying so hard not to cry. I could feel the pressure in my chest, and the bruising had already started. I got back on my board, and together we paddled slowly back to the beach.

When we reached shore, my dad handed me water and a sweet juice to calm my nerves. He checked my chest—it was already turning red and swelling up behind my arm. He gently splashed cold water over it to reduce the swelling and then looked at me, straight in the eyes, and said something I’ll never forget:

💎 “Under immense pressure and unseen struggles, the Earth creates its brightest and hardest gem—the diamond. And just like your name, Intan, which means diamond… you are one. You shine because of what you’ve been through.”

That sentence hit harder than the wipeout—but in a good way. It gave me strength. I smiled through the pain. I knew I wasn’t done yet.

💡 What This Accident Taught Me

This wasn’t just a hit. It was a lesson from the ocean—and from life.

1. The Lineup Can Be Crowded & Dangerous

When you’re the only grom in a lineup full of adults, you’ve got to be extra aware. Situational awareness isn’t just a surf skill—it’s a survival skill.

2. Respect in the Water Is Real

The surfer who hit me didn’t mean to. Accidents happen. But the fact that local senior surfers supported me and the other surfer apologized right away reminded me that respect in the water still exists, even when things get chaotic.

3. My Body Is Stronger Than I Thought

This was real pain—no doubt. But I stayed calm. I didn't panic or scream. I listened to my body, took a break, and treated the injury. And that made me realize: I’m stronger than I think.

4. Support Systems Matter

I’m so lucky to have my dad, my coach, and my local surf crew around me. Even when something goes wrong, I never feel alone. And that gives me the courage to paddle out again and again.

🌀 Back to the Ocean: Finishing Strong

After resting and cooling down, I felt ready again. The pain was still there, but the fire in me was stronger. Dad and I paddled back out, side by side. We caught a few more waves together—3 to 5 good rides before heading back in.

We came back home smiling, a little bruised but feeling proud. Not every session has to end on a high performance. Some end with growth, and those might be even more important.

💬 Why I’m Sharing This Surf Accident Story

This blog isn’t just about perfect waves or trophy moments. It’s about the real journey of a grom surfer. And the real journey includes moments like this—where pain meets power, and you learn who you are under pressure.

So if you’re reading this and you’ve had a tough moment in the water, or even a scary accident—know this:

You are not weak for stepping back. You are strong for getting back up.

And like my dad says…

✨ “You’re a diamond, Intan. Pressure only makes you shine brighter.”

Intan, an 8-year-old surfer girl from Batukaras, standing on the beach in the morning
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Intan Surf

Hi, I’m Intan! I’m an 8-year-old surfer girl from Batukaras, West Java, Indonesia. I started surfing when I was 7 and instantly fell in love with the waves. Surfing is my passion, my playground, and my dream. One day, I hope to become a World Surf League Champion and inspire kids around the world to follow what they love 🌊🏄‍♀️ Thanks for being part of my journey! Let’s grow together, one wave at a time 🤙

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