Tag: Batukaras

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🏄‍♀️ Groom Life

Why Surfing Is for Everyone

Intan and Friends Surfing at the Batukaras Point

When I was 7, I caught my very first wave on a long board in Batukaras. I remember wobbling as I popped up, arms flapping, and falling straight into the whitewash. The wave didn’t care that I was tiny. Or nervous. Or that I barely knew what I was doing. It just picked me up and carried me anyway.

That moment—right there—is when I realized something important: surfing doesn’t have a rulebook for who’s allowed to try.

You don’t need a fancy board, pro-level muscles, or a perfect body. You don’t need to speak the surfer lingo, live by the beach, or even know how to swim that well (yet!). What you do need? Just a little courage. A lot of curiosity. And maybe a buddy to cheer you on from the sand.

Surfing is for everyone.
Here’s why I believe that with my whole surfer heart.

🌊 The Ocean Doesn’t Judge You

You can stand in the lineup beside a pro, a grandma, a total beginner, or a 5-year-old on a boogie board—and the ocean will give all of you a wave.

I’ve surfed with local kids from the village, tourists from faraway countries, and adaptive surfers riding special boards. Some surf with one arm. Some are in their sixties. Some are little girls like me.

The wave doesn’t ask for your resume. It doesn’t care about your style or speed. It just rolls in and gives you a shot.

🌀 Pullquote:
“The wave doesn’t care how old you are. It lifts everyone the same.”

That’s the magic of surfing: it belongs to nobody and everybody at the same time.

🏄‍♀️ There’s More Than One Way to Surf

Some people think surfing only looks one way: sharp turns, shortboards, huge airs. But that’s just one slice of it.

In Batukaras, I’ve seen all kinds of surf styles. Some people cruise on longboards with their toes over the nose. Some carve turns. Some just lie down and ride belly-first with the biggest grins you’ve ever seen.

And honestly? The smiles matter more than the moves.

💡 Callout Tip:
If you’ve ever thought, “I’m not a real surfer,” just remember: if you ride a wave and feel joy, you are one.

There are no “rules” for how to express yourself on a wave. That’s why it’s for everyone.

🌍 Surfing Creates a Global Family

I’ve met surfers from Japan, Australia, the U.S., South America, even Germany—all right here in Batukaras. Some didn’t speak Bahasa. I didn’t speak their language. But we all spoke surf.

We paddled out together, shared the set waves, smiled at each other after wipeouts. That kind of connection doesn’t need translation.

One of my favorite memories was catching waves beside a woman in her forties from Japan. She told me she didn’t learn to surf until she turned 30—and now she travels the world for it. “I never thought this was something for me,” she said. “But the ocean changed my mind.”

That stuck with me.

💬 True Story:
I once gave a thumbs up to a kid visiting from Japan after we both wiped out. He laughed, gave one back, and we ended up riding waves together the rest of the session. Zero words. Pure connection.

🤍 It’s About Progress, Not Perfection

One reason a lot of people feel like surfing isn’t for them is because they think they have to be “good.”

But what even is “good”?

I fall all the time. I nosedive. I miss waves. I get frustrated. But I also keep getting better. That’s what makes it beautiful.

In surfing, every small improvement feels like a big win. Your first paddle out without help. Your first stand. Your first turn. Every little step deserves a celebration.

🗯️ Reminder to Beginners:
Nobody starts perfect. Every pro surfer you admire once stood up for the first time and wiped out hard. And they kept coming back.

So don’t worry about how you look. Worry about how it feels. And if it feels like stoke, you’re doing it right.

💪 It Builds Confidence for Everyone

I used to think surfers had to be fearless. But I learned that real confidence is built by showing up even when you’re scared.

One time the waves were bigger than I was used to. I almost didn’t paddle out. But my coach, Coach Budi, gave me a pep talk. I paddled out. I got tossed. But I also caught the wave of the day.

That’s the thing about surfing—it teaches you to face challenges. Not just on the water, but in life too.

No matter your age or background, surfing helps you feel strong, capable, and brave. That’s something everyone deserves to feel.

💖 A Special Note for Girls and Women

I want to say this loud: girls belong in the lineup.

When I first started surfing, I didn’t see many girls out there. Sometimes I felt like I had to prove I deserved my spot. But now, I know that surfing isn’t just for boys. It’s for us too.

The ocean doesn’t care what gender you are. And we shouldn’t either.

Check out my story on why girls deserve bigger waves too. We’re here. We’re strong. We surf.

🧘‍♂️ Surfing Is Therapy (Without the Couch)

Some people surf for fun. Some surf for sport. But a lot of people surf because it heals them.

There’s something about being in the water that makes you feel calm, centered, and alive. I’ve seen it in grown-ups who come out of the water smiling like little kids. I’ve felt it myself after a bad day.

Surfing gives your mind a break. You stop thinking about school stress or life stuff. You just breathe, paddle, and flow.

No matter what your life looks like, a wave can make it feel lighter.

🏄‍♂️ A Sport That’s Always Waiting for You

Some sports have age limits. Or cost limits. Or rules that make it hard to jump in.

But surfing? The ocean is free. The waves keep coming. Whether you’re 6, 16, or 60—when you’re ready, the waves are too.

In fact, it’s never too late to start.

💬 Final Thoughts: See You in the Lineup

So here’s what I want you to take from this:
You don’t need to be a certain type of person to surf. You just need to try.

Whether you ride big waves or tiny peelers, whether you stand or belly ride, whether you fall a lot or ride like a pro—if you love the ocean, you belong.

Surfing is for everyone.
It’s for the loud ones and the quiet ones. The goofy-footers and the regulars. The daring, the nervous, the young, the old, the curious. It’s for YOU.

And if you ever come to Batukaras, look for the little girl in pink wax and a big smile—I’ll be the first to share a wave with you 🤙🏽

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🏄‍♀️ Groom Life 💪 Training & Routines

School & Surf: How I Balance Both

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🌞 From Sunrise Swells to School Bells

What’s it like being a surfer and a student? Well, let me tell you—it’s a full-on adventure every single day! While some kids wake up and go straight to class, my day usually starts with salty hair, sandy feet, and riding waves. Yep, I go from surf to school in one flow—no stop at home!

Every morning, I pack my school bag with two important things: my books and my school uniform. After surfing, I rinse off at the beach shower, change into my uniform, and hop on my motorbike with my board still racked on the side. That’s how I roll—literally! 🏍️🏄‍♀️

Pullquote Block:

“Some mornings I paddle out before the sun rises—then by 7 AM, I’m sitting in class ready to learn. That’s my balance!”

🎒 My Daily Grom Schedule

People often ask me, “How do you have time for both surfing and school?” Here’s the truth—it takes planning, passion, and a lot of love for both. My day usually goes something like this:

Weekday Routine:

  • 4:30 AM – Wake up and stretch
  • 5:00 AM – Check the waves and paddle out for a morning session
  • 6:30 AM – Quick rinse at the beach, change into school uniform
  • 6:45AM – Ride to school with my board strapped to my motorbike
  • 7:15AM to 11:00 AM – Focused time in class
  • 12:00 PM – Homework, snack, or quick nap
  • 4:00 PM – Optional second surf, skate session, or dryland training
  • 6:00 PM – Dinner and chill time
  • 9:00 PM – Lights out to rest up for another early wave!

It’s a full-on lifestyle, but I wouldn’t change it for anything. Surfing before school wakes up my mind and body—it’s like nature’s coffee (but better!).

🧠 School Mode: From Wave Brain to Study Brain

Sometimes it’s tricky to go from surf brain to school brain so fast. After riding waves and feeling the ocean stoke, it takes a minute to sit still in class. But I’ve found some tricks that help me switch gears:

  • I sit near the front so I stay focused.
  • I always pack a big water bottle and snacks because surfing makes me extra hungry.
  • I use a fun planner with stickers to track tests, homework, and even surf comps.
  • And if I’m really tired, I remind myself why I’m doing all this—because I have a dream 💭✨

Even when I’m sandy or a bit sleepy from an epic morning surf, I do my best in school because learning is important too. Plus, I want to show people that groms can do both—shred waves and smash tests!

🏄‍♀️ Why Surfing Helps Me in School

Here’s a secret: surfing actually helps me do better in school. When I surf in the morning, I come to class feeling calmer and more focused. It’s like all the ocean energy clears my brain and makes space for learning.

If I skip a surf, I honestly feel more fidgety and less focused. But when I start my day with waves, everything feels smoother—even my handwriting!

Also, surfing teaches me so many life lessons that help in school too, like:

  • Patience – waiting for the right wave = waiting for your turn in class
  • Discipline – training even when it’s raining = doing homework even when I’m tired
  • Focus – reading the ocean = reading books!

🧳 Packing for Both Worlds

Let’s talk real-life grom hacks. I have a routine to make sure I don’t forget anything important:

My daily backpack includes:

  • School books + pencil case
  • My uniform, if I’m not wearing it already
  • A small towel and soap
  • My lunch or snack box
  • a pair of shoe

And my surf bag is ready too:

  • Surfboard (waxed up!)
  • Rash guard or wetsuit
  • Water bottle
  • Beach towel
  • Surf Leash
  • GoPro (for Record my activity)

That way, I can go straight from surf to school without ever needing to go home in between. Some people are surprised when I show up in class and say, “Wait—you already surfed today?” and I’m like, “Yep! That’s just my morning!”

⚡ Top 5 Tips for Groms Balancing School & Surf

If you’re a young surfer trying to balance school too, here are my best tips from experience:

  1. Set your clothes and books out the night before. It saves time in the morning.
  2. Surf early. Get your session in before school so your brain is fresh.
  3. Keep your stuff organized. Messy bags = forgotten homework!
  4. Use surfing as a reward. Finish your homework, then earn your waves.
  5. Talk to your teachers. Let them know you’re also training seriously as an athlete—they’ll often support you more when they understand.

🌊 Why I Love the School + Surf Life

Honestly, some days are hard. Sometimes I wipe out in the water and feel frustrated. Other days, I might not do great on a quiz. But that’s life! Balancing school and surf isn’t about being perfect—it’s about staying committed to both.

I love learning new things in class and learning new tricks in the ocean. It keeps my life exciting, colorful, and full of challenges that help me grow stronger—mentally and physically.

🔗 Related Reads

Big shoutout to Ripcurl for making cool gear that works for both school and surf! And thanks to my coach and family for helping me keep my life balanced and full of stoke 💖

💖 Final Thoughts: One Wave at a Time

To all the groms out there juggling school and surf—you got this! It’s okay to be tired. It’s okay to not have perfect grades or the longest rides. What matters is showing up, doing your best, and loving what you do.

For me, being a student and a surfer is like riding two different kinds of waves. Some are fast, some are slow, but both teach you how to balance.

Thanks for reading my story 💌 If you’re living the school+surf life too, send me a message on Instagram @intansurf—I’d love to hear how you balance both!

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🌊 Surf Progress Journal 💖 Girl Power Surf

💥 When I Got Hit in the Lineup: A Lesson from the Point

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🌅 Early Morning at the Point

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The session started like any other. The sun was barely up, and I paddled out with excitement. The waves were soft and small at first, about 3 to 4 feet—nothing crazy. I was feeling confident, ready for another fun day training and improving. But Batukaras always has surprises, and today would turn out way different than I expected.

By around 7:30 AM, the ocean changed. The sets started rolling in bigger, around 6 to 7 feet—moderately large, especially for me as an 8-year-old grom surfer girl. There were about 20–35 surfers in the water, mostly adults and older teens. I was the only grom in the lineup at the point. It felt intense, but I held my line, stayed focused, and stayed safe—until wave number seven.

🚨 The Impact: What Happened

I had just paddled back into position after riding a few smaller waves. A few local surfers had seen me and even helped give me a little push into one wave because I was a bit slow on the paddle. That moment felt amazing—getting support from the older, more experienced surfers gave me a boost of confidence.

At the same time, my Dad, who was watching from the longboard near the point, started calling out to me: “Intan, come surf near the beach—it’s safer!”

I hesitated.

That’s when one of the local senior surfers Budi who also my first coach paddled over and said something I’ll never forget:

“Stay here, Intan. Grom surfers deserve waves too. We’ve got your back.”

So I stayed. In the few minutes I got my waves, Mr. Budi help push me And then, boom.
Out of nowhere—a bigger surfer collided with me mid-wave, crashing straight into my left chest.

The pain was instant. It knocked the wind out of me. My board spun away, and for a moment, I just floated, frozen and confused. I was in pain. I didn’t cry right away—I just held still, shocked.

🛟 Paddling In & Getting Support

My dad noticed something was wrong and quickly paddled out to me. As he reached me, I was trying so hard not to cry. I could feel the pressure in my chest, and the bruising had already started. I got back on my board, and together we paddled slowly back to the beach.

When we reached shore, my dad handed me water and a sweet juice to calm my nerves. He checked my chest—it was already turning red and swelling up behind my arm. He gently splashed cold water over it to reduce the swelling and then looked at me, straight in the eyes, and said something I’ll never forget:

💎 “Under immense pressure and unseen struggles, the Earth creates its brightest and hardest gem—the diamond. And just like your name, Intan, which means diamond… you are one. You shine because of what you’ve been through.”

That sentence hit harder than the wipeout—but in a good way. It gave me strength. I smiled through the pain. I knew I wasn’t done yet.

💡 What This Accident Taught Me

This wasn’t just a hit. It was a lesson from the ocean—and from life.

1. The Lineup Can Be Crowded & Dangerous

When you’re the only grom in a lineup full of adults, you’ve got to be extra aware. Situational awareness isn’t just a surf skill—it’s a survival skill.

2. Respect in the Water Is Real

The surfer who hit me didn’t mean to. Accidents happen. But the fact that local senior surfers supported me and the other surfer apologized right away reminded me that respect in the water still exists, even when things get chaotic.

3. My Body Is Stronger Than I Thought

This was real pain—no doubt. But I stayed calm. I didn’t panic or scream. I listened to my body, took a break, and treated the injury. And that made me realize: I’m stronger than I think.

4. Support Systems Matter

I’m so lucky to have my dad, my coach, and my local surf crew around me. Even when something goes wrong, I never feel alone. And that gives me the courage to paddle out again and again.

🌀 Back to the Ocean: Finishing Strong

After resting and cooling down, I felt ready again. The pain was still there, but the fire in me was stronger. Dad and I paddled back out, side by side. We caught a few more waves together—3 to 5 good rides before heading back in.

We came back home smiling, a little bruised but feeling proud. Not every session has to end on a high performance. Some end with growth, and those might be even more important.

💬 Why I’m Sharing This Surf Accident Story

This blog isn’t just about perfect waves or trophy moments. It’s about the real journey of a grom surfer. And the real journey includes moments like this—where pain meets power, and you learn who you are under pressure.

So if you’re reading this and you’ve had a tough moment in the water, or even a scary accident—know this:

You are not weak for stepping back. You are strong for getting back up.

And like my dad says…

✨ “You’re a diamond, Intan. Pressure only makes you shine brighter.”

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🏄‍♀️ Groom Life

Weekend Surf Trip with My Crew

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Surfing together with my Dad

There’s just something about a weekend surf trip that hits different—even when you’re surfing your home break. This time, I didn’t travel far. Nope, I stayed right here in Batukaras. But I had my full crew with me: my dad (aka my manager), my surf coach, and my cameraman. That alone made it feel like something special. The waves weren’t perfect, but we made the most of them, caught some fun rides, learned new things, and shared good food and even better laughs. Here’s a full recap of what went down during this weekend’s surf mission!

The Surf Crew Vibe

Every surf trip starts with the people you’re with. For me, this crew is everything. My dad is not just my family—he’s also the one keeping everything in check, from schedule to gear to snacks. Then there’s my surf coach, who’s always on the lookout to push me a little further and teach me new techniques. And of course, my cameraman is the one behind the scenes catching all the action so we can review and share it later.

We’re like a surf team—but with extra jokes, a lot of food, and random dance moves during breaks.

The Plan: Two Sessions, One Goal—Progress

We didn’t plan anything too fancy. Just surf, learn, and enjoy the weekend. Our usual spot? Yep—Batukaras Point, my daily playground.

Here’s how the day went down:

  • First session: 6:00–8:00 AM
  • Second session: 1:00–4:00 PM
  • Plus snack breaks in between, of course.

The morning waves were a bit sleepy, but it was a good warm-up. I used that session to feel out the tide and test some board positioning. The real magic started later in the day.

Wave Conditions: Not Epic, But Rideable

Let’s be honest—this wasn’t the kind of weekend where you get perfect barrels or dream setups. The swell was soft and a little inconsistent. But even when the waves aren’t great, Batukaras Point always has something to offer if you’re patient.

From 12:30 PM to 5 PM, things picked up. The tide changed, the sun warmed up the beach, and some nice waist-to-chest high sets started to roll in. Just enough power to ride a shortboard, especially if you know where to sit and when to paddle. That’s where my coach helped a lot—reminding me to read the waves deeper, and use the shoulder more smartly.

Learning a New Takeoff Trick

Here’s something I really dialed in during this trip:
Angled takeoffs.

Batukaras has a mellow but sneaky kind of wave. If you take off straight, your board can get stuck or even sink in those softer spots. My coach taught me how to angle my board just slightly when paddling in—especially on mid-sized waves. It made a huge difference.

Suddenly, I was getting smoother drops and more flow into my first turn. It might seem like a small thing, but for me, this was a big win. Those micro-skills are what shape better surfing over time.

Grom Fuel: Snacks & Classic Surf Food

Surfing makes me hungry. And I mean really hungry. Luckily, we kept things super local and super yummy.

Here’s what powered my sessions:

  • 🍌 Local bananas and some crunchy cookies from the beach stalls
  • 🍳 Nasi goreng (my go-to breakfast almost every weekend)
  • 🍛 Rendang for lunch—spicy, saucy, and totally satisfying

I always feel better when I eat food I love and that gives me energy. I didn’t need any protein bars or fancy stuff—just real food that hits right after a paddle-out.

Break Time = Bonding Time

Between sessions, we chilled under the trees by the beach. My dad and I watched some of the clips from the first session on my camera. I love reviewing footage—it helps me see things I didn’t notice while riding. Plus, we get to laugh at the wipeouts (yes, even mine 😆).

We also talked about goals. My dad reminded me that even though I want to become a WSL champion one day, these little moments—working hard, staying humble, and sharing time with people who believe in me—are just as important as any trophy.

Patience Is a Surfer’s Secret Weapon

One of the biggest lessons from this weekend was this:
👉 Be patient.

The good waves didn’t come all the time. I had to wait, and wait some more. At first, I felt like paddling for anything just to keep moving. But my coach told me to breathe and trust the rhythm of the ocean.

And guess what? When I did, I ended up catching one of my best rides of the day—a clean right with just enough face for a turn and a little nose press. Totally worth the wait.

Teamwork Makes the Dream Work (For Real)

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Highfive with my Dad after finish my second sesion

I also had a cool moment with my dad—kind of like a teamwork check-in. We were planning out what to film, what to focus on for my progress, and even thinking about content for my Instagram and blog. He reminded me that we’re in this together. And that made me realize something important:

💬 No surfer wins alone.

Behind every young surfer, there’s usually a team—parents, coaches, mentors, and friends—helping them grow. I’m lucky to have mine.

“Waves come and go—but moments like this stay forever.”

Wrapping It Up: What I’m Taking from This Trip

This weekend didn’t give me the best waves of my life—but it gave me something maybe even better:

  • A new skill
  • Time with my favorite people
  • A reminder of why I love surfing so much

The sun was out, the energy was good, and I walked away with a full heart and some cool clips for the ‘gram (and yes, blog too!).

Categories
💪 Training & Routines

How I Stay Fit for Surfing

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🏄‍♀️ Staying Surf Strong at 8 Years Old

Surfing isn’t just about catching waves—it’s about feeling strong, healthy, and happy in your body 🌈

Hi, I’m Intan—a grom surfer from Batukaras. Even though I’m only 8 years old, I take my surf training seriously (and have a lot of fun with it too)! I want to become a World Surf League (WSL) Champion someday, so staying fit helps me keep improving every time I paddle out.

Let me take you behind the scenes of how I train outside the water—with swimming, running, surfskating, eating right, and more!

🏊‍♀️ Swim Training with My Coach

Swimming is one of the best cross-training exercises for surfers. It helps me build strong shoulders, arms, lungs, and heart. Plus, it helps me feel more confident in the water—especially when the waves get big.

I train regularly in the pool with my swimming coach. We do:

  • Warm-ups like arm swings and kicks
  • Laps with freestyle and breaststroke
  • Breath-holding drills
  • Cool downs and stretches after each session

Sometimes I use fins to build leg strength too. And I always bring my best stoke to the pool! 💦

“Swimming helps me paddle longer, duck dive stronger, and feel relaxed in the ocean.”

If you’re a grom surfer like me, I totally recommend swimming once or twice a week. It’s like training for surfing without needing the waves!

🏃‍♀️ Running & Jogging = Cardio Superpowers

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I also go jogging or running regularly. It helps me:

  • Build strong legs (for better pop-ups)
  • Train my lungs and breathing
  • Clear my mind and feel good

Sometimes I run with my family in the early morning or late afternoon when it’s not too hot. Other times, I just jog around the village or beach track.

🎵 I even make it more fun by adding music or making little challenges like, “Can I run until the next coconut tree without stopping?

🛹 Playing with Surfskate (Training + Fun!)

When I’m not in the water, surfskating is one of my favorite ways to train. It helps my:

  • Surf style and flow
  • Turns and body movement
  • Balance and core strength

I use my surfskate to practice bottom turns, carves, and little cutbacks—just like on real waves. It’s also super fun to ride around with friends or make up mini games like surfskate tag 🌀

📸 Tip for Readers: If you’re new to surfskating, start on smooth roads or parks and wear your safety gear (helmet, knee pads, wrist guards).

🍓 My Grom Fuel: Eating Healthy Every Day

Food is fuel! As a young athlete, I need energy from the right kind of foods to stay strong and happy.

Here’s a peek into my typical surfer diet:

MealWhat I Eat
BreakfastOatmeal + banana + honey 🍌
LunchRice + chicken or fish + veggies 🥦
SnacksSmoothies, yogurt, or boiled eggs 🍓🥚
DinnerRice + tofu/tempeh + soup or salad 🥣
DrinksWater, coconut water, fruit juices 🥥

I try not to eat too many sweets or junk food. But sometimes I enjoy a little ice cream after a big surf session 🍦 (because balance!)

💡 Pro Tip: I listen to my body. When I’m tired, I eat more protein. When it’s hot, I hydrate more. My coach and mom help guide me too.

💖 Rest Days & Stretching = Magic Combo

Sometimes people forget that rest and recovery are just as important as training. That’s when my body grows stronger!

Here’s what I do on chill days:

  • Gentle stretches
  • Rolling out on a foam roller
  • Drawing or journaling about my surf sessions
  • Watching surf comps (my fav: Uriah Anchor and Molly Picklum!)

I try to sleep early too so I wake up fresh and ready to chase waves 🌞

🌟 Why All This Matters

You might be wondering: “Isn’t this a lot for an 8-year-old?”

Maybe. But to me, surfing is my dream, and dreams take passion, effort, and practice. I still play, go to school, laugh with my friends, and have fun like every kid. But I also train with purpose—because one day, I want to paddle out on the world stage.

Every training session is one step closer to that.

📣 Final Words from Me

Whether you’re a surfer or just love to move your body, remember this:

“Train hard, rest well, eat good, and do it all with joy.”

You don’t need to be perfect—you just need to stay stoked and keep trying. If you love something, take care of yourself so you can do it even better 💪🏄‍♀️

Thanks for reading! Want more surf grom tips and behind-the-scenes? Catch me on Instagram 👉 @intansurf

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🌊 Surf Progress Journal

My First Surfboard: How It All Started in Batukaras

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Waxing my surfboard this morning

Every surfer remembers their very first board—the one that taught them how to chase waves, wipe out, laugh, and dream big. For me, that board came into my life at the very beginning of my surfing journey, in a little corner of Indonesia called Batukaras.

I still remember how it all happened, just a few weeks after I caught my very first wave at the end of 2023. Here’s the full story of my first surfboard, the memories it gave me, and what’s coming next in my surfing adventure!

🏄🏽‍♀️ The Story of How I Got My First Surfboard

At the end of 2023, I had just fallen in love with surfing. Every day at the beach was a new adventure—standing up, falling down, paddling for waves with everything I had. It didn’t take long for my family and coach to see that I was hooked for life.

One afternoon, a local surfer who had been coaching me told me about a Japanese surfer who was returning home. Before leaving Batukaras, the surfer wanted to sell their board. It wasn’t brand new, but it was still in great condition and had the right vibe for a young surfer starting out.

Without thinking twice, we made it happen. That day, I became the proud owner of my very first surfboard—a board that would carry me through so many firsts.

The Board: Technical Details and Why It Was Special

My first surfboard was a thruster setup with three fins, but it had five fin slots in total—meaning it could also be used as a quad if needed. It was 5’4″ long, which for some groms might sound small, but for me at the time, it was actually a little bit big!

The extra size was a blessing in disguise. It gave me more stability, made it easier to catch waves early, and helped me build confidence popping up. When you’re just starting out, that extra bit of forgiveness makes all the difference.

The board had a simple but classic design that made me feel like a real surfer every time I paddled out. No crazy colors or graphics—just a pure, honest board ready to ride.

It wasn’t a perfect fit forever, but it was perfect for learning. That’s what made it so special.

🌊 Learning to Surf With It: Wipeouts, Wins, and Everything In Between

The first few weeks with my board were all about experimenting. Some days I felt like a superhero; other days the ocean reminded me who’s boss!

I surfed my local break in Batukaras almost every day, practicing paddling, popping up, balancing, and riding waves as far as I could. My coach was there for every session, shouting tips and encouragement from the water and the beach.

One of my best early memories was catching my first unbroken wave all by myself. It was a small, gentle right-hander—and even though I only stood for a few seconds, it felt like flying. My first board made that moment possible.

Of course, there were also tons of wipeouts! 😂 But every fall taught me something, and every small success made me love surfing even more.

✨ What My First Surfboard Taught Me

My first surfboard taught me way more than just how to surf. It taught me:

  • Patience — Because learning takes time (and lots of wipeouts!)
  • Persistence — Because every wipeout is just a step closer to success
  • Gratitude — Because not everyone gets a chance to chase their dreams this way
  • Joy — Because every wave, even the smallest one, is a reason to smile

It also gave me my first taste of surf stoke—that feeling you get when you’re in the ocean, chasing waves, feeling free.

Even though I’m moving on to a new board this year, I’ll always be grateful to my first surfboard. It was the first chapter in my surfing story.

🏄🏽‍♀️ My Next Step: A Custom Board Built Just for Me

This year, I’m leveling up.
I’m ordering my first custom surfboard, one that fits my height, weight, and style of surfing perfectly!

I’m working with Robi Hendra, an amazing surfer and shaper from Bali. Robi is helping me design a board that’s lighter, more maneuverable, and ideal for the types of moves and turns I want to master next.

It’s a huge step because it shows how serious I am about improving and chasing my dream of becoming a WSL champion someday.

While I’ll never forget my first board, I know this next board will help me unlock new levels in my surfing—faster takeoffs, sharper turns, and maybe even some aerials (one day!) 🌈

💬 Final Thoughts

Getting my first surfboard wasn’t just about getting gear—it was about starting a journey.
That thruster was my first real connection to the ocean, my first partner in chasing dreams, and the reason I’m standing here today, hungry for more waves, more adventures, and bigger goals.

Wherever my surfing career takes me, I’ll always carry the memory of that board—and the feeling of riding my very first wave.

Stay tuned for my next post where I’ll show you the design and story behind my new custom board! 🏄‍♀️