Tag: intansurf

Some days, I feel like the ocean’s favorite toy.

Seriously. I paddle out full of stoke, line up for the wave, pop up fast… and boom—down I go. Tumbled. Rolled. Spun like laundry. Hair everywhere. Board ten feet away. One sock still on (just kidding, I don’t wear socks in the ocean… yet). 😂

I used to think wipeouts meant I messed up. Now? I think they mean I’m doing something awesome—pushing myself. Trying something new. Going for it. That’s what surfing is about, right?

This post is all about how I deal with wipeouts. Because let’s be honest—we all fall. It’s how we get back up that counts.

My First Big Wipeout (And What It Taught Me)

I still remember my first “real” wipeout. Not the little tumbles when I was learning how to stand up in the whitewash, but the first time I got absolutely slammed by a set wave.

It was a stormy afternoon at home in Batukaras. I was feeling brave and followed my coach into a slightly bigger section. I dropped in late, didn’t shift my weight properly, and the wave just swallowed me like a snack. I spun underwater, panicked a bit, and came up gasping.

The first thing I saw? My coach cheering from the lineup.

He didn’t say, “What happened?”
He shouted, “YES! That was solid commitment!”

That moment flipped everything for me. Wipeouts weren’t something to be embarrassed about. They were badges of courage. Proof that I was sending it.

That day, I started writing about my sessions in my surf journal—not just the waves I caught, but the falls too. Each one had something to teach me.

Wipeouts Happen to Everyone (Even Legends)

Here’s a secret: even the surfers I look up to—like Carissa Moore, Bethanie Hamilton , Erin Brooks, and my fave grom charger Uriah Anchor—wipe out all the time. You just don’t see every fall in the highlight reels.

I once watched a clip of Uriah attempting the same air three times in a row before sticking it. And you know what? His wipeouts looked kinda epic too.

So when I crash on a turn or get caught on the inside, I remind myself I’m not failing—I’m just practicing. That mental shift has helped me so much.

How I Physically Deal with Wipeouts

Okay, so what do I actually do when I wipe out? Here’s my go-to move:

1. Relax. I know, easier said than done. But I’ve learned that the more I relax underwater, the faster I come back up. Fighting the ocean is like arguing with a volcano—pointless and fiery.
2. Protect my head. Always. My arms go up over my head in case my board is nearby.
3. Count slowly. If I get held under, I count in my head: “One… two…” It calms me down and keeps me from freaking out.
4. Pop up and laugh. If I’m okay, I always laugh. It reminds me not to take myself too seriously. Surfing is fun—even when it’s wild.

How I Mentally Deal with Wipeouts

This is the part people don’t talk about enough.

Wipeouts can mess with your confidence. After a heavy fall, your brain might whisper: “Don’t try that again. That was scary.” And if you listen, fear starts building walls in your mind.

Here’s how I break those walls down:

🔁 I rewind the moment.

In my head (or in my journal later), I replay what happened. Did I pop up too late? Was my weight too far back? Did I panic instead of committing? It’s like watching game footage but with salty hair and sand in your ears.

🧠 I talk to myself like a coach.

Not a mean coach—a good one. The kind that says, “Nice try! Now let’s fix that angle.” Not, “Ugh, you’re terrible.” I learned that from writing my Girl Power Surf posts—it’s all about kindness to yourself.

🧡 I say my mantra.

Yup, I have one. It changes sometimes, but lately it’s this:

“Falling is flying in disguise.”

It reminds me that crashing is part of going big. Every surfer chasing a dream has fallen more than they’ve landed. That means I’m on the right track.

The Coolest Thing About Wipeouts? Growth.

Every wipeout gives me something—even if it’s just a funny story.

Like that time I tried a floater on a crumbling section and landed face-first, only to come up and see a bunch of little kids on the beach cheering for me like I’d won a contest. I bowed dramatically. Got a high five. Then paddled back out.

Or the time I got rag-dolled in a shorebreak and lost my board… and my leash… and almost my dignity. I didn’t surf great that day, but I walked home with sand in my ears and the biggest grin.

Because honestly? I felt proud. I showed up. I paddled out. I gave it a shot.

Wipeouts Have Helped Me:

• Trust my instincts more
• Breathe deeper and stay calm
• Respect the ocean’s power (and my own limits)
• Recover faster between sets
• Grow my balance, timing, and strength
• Stay humble and grateful

And maybe best of all: they’ve made me braver.

I’m not fearless. But I am willing to fall—and that’s what bravery really is.

What I Tell Other Groms About Wipeouts

To every grom out there just starting or just starting to push themselves:

Don’t be afraid to fall. Fall with style. Fall with a smile. Fall like the ocean is your trampoline and you’re learning to bounce higher.

You’re not alone. I’m falling too—and I’m still here, still stoked, still paddling.

Let’s wipe out together and keep rising, one wave at a time. 🤙

Wanna Share Your Wipeout Story?

I’d love to hear it. Drop it in the comments or DM me on Instagram at @intansurf. Whether it was a belly flop, a nose dive, or an underwater barrel roll—you’re not alone!