There’s this moment—just a few seconds long—that feels like the whole world freezes. The ocean stops talking. Your heart starts shouting. You’re paddling with everything you’ve got, and suddenly… you’re not paddling anymore. You’re flying.
That, my friend, is what it feels like to catch a wave.
And once you’ve felt it, you’ll spend the rest of your life chasing that feeling again and again.
The Build-Up: Heartbeats and Ocean Drums
It starts way before the wave. Before you even paddle out, you already feel the ocean calling. Your board under your arm. The wax under your feet. The salty wind in your hair like it’s whispering, “Let’s go.”
When I paddle out at my home break in Batukaras, everything else disappears. I don’t think about school or cameras or whether I left my leash in the car again (oops). I just listen. The ocean speaks in little pulses, like heartbeats made of water.
You wait. You look. You learn to feel the wave before you even see it. And then—it shows itself.
I actually wrote about this connection in “From Batukaras to Big Dreams: My Surfing Journey Begins”, where I first started realizing the sea was more than just water. It was a friend. A challenge. A home.
That One Wave
There’s a wave that always calls your name. Not the biggest. Not the fastest. Just the right one.
You turn your board. You start to paddle. Your arms move fast, but your mind slows down. You’re not thinking anymore. You’re reacting. You’re trusting.
There’s a bump under your board. A lift. A feeling like something bigger than you is giving you a push, saying, “Alright, go.”
Then comes the pop-up.
It’s muscle memory now. A fast jump, hands down, feet under. And just like that—
You’re On It
And now… the ride.
The board locks in. The wave hugs the rails. You’re standing. You’re gliding. You’re on.
It doesn’t feel like a sport. It feels like you’re part of something alive. Like you just got invited to dance with the ocean.
You don’t hear people cheering. You don’t hear anything. Except maybe your own scream of joy, bursting out like, “YEEEEEWWWW!!” (which sounds 10x louder in your head.)
Every turn, every carve, every second—it’s like time has a different speed. You feel weightless but powerful. Calm but electric.
When It All Clicks
Some waves are short. Some are so long you start smiling mid-ride. Some go wrong—wobbles, wipeouts, unexpected nose dives. But when it clicks… it’s like writing the perfect sentence in an essay you thought you messed up.
There’s no perfect word for it. Some say “freedom.” Some say “connection.” I just say magic.
And it doesn’t matter how old you are, or what your level is. When you catch the wave that makes your heart race—you know it.
Wipeouts Are Part of the Love Story
Not every wave loves you back. That’s part of surfing too.
There are wipeouts where you tumble like laundry in a machine. There are times your leash yanks your ankle like, “Nope, not this time.” There are days you paddle and paddle and the ocean says, “Try again tomorrow.”
And still… you paddle back out. Every. Single. Time.
Because even when the wave wins, you’re learning. You’re growing. You’re getting closer to the next magic moment.
Sharing the Stoke
One of the best things about surfing isn’t just catching waves—it’s sharing them.
Like when your friend catches their first green wave and you scream from the lineup louder than they do. Or when you and a grom buddy high-five after a sick session and replay every moment like you just won the Olympics.
That shared stoke? It’s real. It’s this invisible fire that connects us all.And even on days when the waves aren’t perfect, the smiles always are.
Sometimes after a session, we’ll grab snacks and just replay our favorite waves over mie ayam or fresh coconut. I even shared my fave surf snacks in a full post about what I eat after surf sessions, because yes—food tastes 100x better after catching waves!
It Never Gets Old
Here’s something I’ve learned: every wave is different. Even when you surf the same spot every day. The ocean never copies itself. And that means—every ride is new. Every drop-in is a fresh chance to feel something epic.
Sometimes, you catch a wave and it feels soft, flowy, like the ocean is rocking you gently. Other times it’s wild, steep, fast—like a rollercoaster with no seatbelt.
And every time, it teaches you something. About rhythm. About patience. About falling and getting up.
About yourself.
Why I Keep Paddling Out
People ask why I surf every day. Rain or shine. Small or big. Windy or clean.
And my answer is simple:
Because there’s always a wave waiting that could change your whole day. Maybe even your life.
That next one might be the one that makes you feel unstoppable. Or peaceful. Or just plain happy.
That’s why I keep chasing waves. And that’s why I’ll never stop.
So… What Does It Feel Like?
It feels like joy. Like freedom. Like you found the missing piece of your soul.
It feels like flying and falling and laughing—all in one.
It feels like… home.
So if you’ve never surfed before and you’re wondering what it’s like—don’t just read about it. Come try. Catch one wave. Just one.
And I promise, your heart will never be the same.
